I’m just pulling your leg.
What's so hard to accept? 120 volt uses one leg of the alternating current and is returned to the neutral leg resulting in 120 volts, and 240 volt uses both alternating resulting in 240.
I remember reading that thread a while back when I first came here. Figured you already had a fix. Think I had a couple ideas of what the trouble may be. Would have to look at again.
Like the one you have. But could stand to be replaced. Those metal tabs inside can fatigue over time from heat and make for a bit of a loose fit.
People can trip over them; the plug can pull loose in the outlet and cause sparking, or something could fall on the exposed blades and short it out, or someone could touch it and get shocked. Over time, the cords can deteriorate; furniture can be placed on them causing damage, they are often run through windows and doors, which can damage them; people who use them tend to do so because they have more electrical appliances than they do outlets so they plug more into them than they should, basically using the cord as a permanent wiring method - honestly, any number of things. It's just poor practice and can be dangerous, which is why they should only be used for temporary purposes.
10's pretty hefty, particularly for a box that size which contains a switch; motor manufacturers will generally use a smaller size mainly due to the short distances involved to the load being served - my guess would be 12 gauge; but I could be wrong too.
Knew an old timer that was taught to install outlets ground at the top so if the cord wasn't in tight nothing could drop and lay across the hot/neutral.
Residential electric isn't to difficult to do right. If are handy enough to do woodworking, I think you could handle it. Pretty much boils down to hooking up right(not much to it) and making secure connections. Plenty of online resources out there to light the way. Pun intended..
Say it's good then.
Yep, precisely. That's a good idea and "generally" standard practice for situations like workshops, or working studios, some kitchens where the likelihood of that occurring is more prevalent. Another option is horizontal with the neutral blade on top. Of course, it's also standard practice these days to install the ground up to indicate a switched outlet (where all others would be ground down), so I think the practice has sort of waned over the years in preference to what's done today.
First rule is always DO IT NEAT - and that passes on that score. Plus, you're now aware of potential issues so will treat the cord better.
That's a really great idea and I'm going to do that.
My go to's on such questions are either "Works fine, lasts long time" or "PFM" (Pure F'n Magic)
Here's why your suggestion resonated with me so much: I ran a cord to my shop table in order to wire it (power strip on every corner = awesome), and a wire running along the floor, even if not where foot traffic is, was impossible to avoid. I taped it down with duct tape and even covered it with red electrical tape for good measure, but I always hated this solution, and the wiremold really does a lot to fix that.And you can get everything you need at Home Depot or Lowes.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Yeah, not the best solution, but it can work for you probably indefinitely.
I made something identical to this:
It's a quadplex outlet in a 4-square deep steel electrical box with raised cover. I attached it to a rugged, heavy duty 12 gauge SO cord (much more rugged than a standard extension cord) with a plug. It's real handy and I can kick it out of the way when not in use. Incredibly durable, but it can still be a trip hazard.
True dat.
You could perhaps consider a cord reel. You'd still have a string or cord hanging down to pull down the outlet, but not as obvious or invasive.