What did it look like when it was applied?What's a consumer grade outdoor caulking/sealant that won't do this?
View attachment 67387289
"How many years ago was that done, Cardinal?"
Oh, just last Fall.
That was Sherwin Williams exterior sealant, and it did that in a couple weeks. Now it's warm weather again and it's time to take another stab at it, and this time do it right so Mrs. Cardinal loves me again.
All of my internet researching leads me to websites that are nothing more than Amazon aggregates, ranked by nothing more than their fake ratings. Other industrial/construction grade sealants require that I be a construction business and quite specifically won't mail to home addresses.
Who makes the good stuff?
What did it look like when it was applied?
Is the column clad with aluminum or plastic?
Looks like wood molding. Dissimilar materials contract and expand at different rates.
Did you use something other than your finger to apply the caulk?
This tool beats a finger: View attachment 67387293
I have never been able to apply caulk without a couple of rolls of paper towels. I have always used DAP and GE.
I forgot to answer that. Came with the house, and they're load bearing. I'm pretty sure the exterior is plastic.What are these pillars for? Come with the house new, add-on by prior owner, by yourself? Did you apply from the tube only or also smooth out and how? Was the surface totally clean and dry? It just looks to me like you've got a bit of a problem that might be only caulking.
What's a consumer grade outdoor caulking/sealant that won't do this?
View attachment 67387289
"How many years ago was that done, Cardinal?"
Oh, just last Fall.
That was Sherwin Williams exterior sealant, and it did that in a couple weeks. Now it's warm weather again and it's time to take another stab at it, and this time do it right so Mrs. Cardinal loves me again.
All of my internet researching leads me to websites that are nothing more than Amazon aggregates, ranked by nothing more than their fake ratings. Other industrial/construction grade sealants require that I be a construction business and quite specifically won't mail to home addresses.
Who makes the good stuff?
I have good luck with DAP dynaflex
DYNAFLEX ULTRA™ Advanced Exterior Sealant | DAP Global
Powered by innovative Weather Max Technology™ for long-lasting, All Weather Protection.www.dap.com
Use exterior silicone
How much weather is that door exposed to?The (pictured) problem is not caused by the quality of the caulk - it’s the lack of applying it correctly. Use any paintable (pure silicone is not - latex paints will not stick to it) exterior (not the cheapest ‘painters’ interior) caulk rated at 35 years or better. The surface should prepped (free of old caulk globs and dust) then the caulk applied (correctly filling any gaps) in a continuous bead and smoothed.
View attachment 67387300
The (small) job pictured above is from the replacement of an old (worn out) sliding (patio) door with a normal (out swing) entry door.
You can get it in white which that pillar isMany (pure) silicone caulks are not paintable - latex paints will bead up on it.
How much weather is that door exposed to?
@Cardinal ‘s looks like it’s exposed to direct sun and rain…….makes a big difference, in my experience.
You can get it in white which that pillar is
little to no sun, lots of other elements.How much weather is that door exposed to?
@Cardinal ‘s looks like it’s exposed to direct sun and rain…….makes a big difference, in my experience.
I think it's fair to say that the prep wasn't quite there, but that I almost certainly wasn't using ideal stuff too. While I'm careful to remove all previous caulking, I can't say with certainty that I adequately cleaned the surface first.@Cardinal
I have to agree with @ttwtt78640
the greatest factor in successful caulking and painting is surface preparation.
Well it also will give you a chance to redo the miter joints……….I think it's fair to say that the prep wasn't quite there, but that I almost certainly wasn't using ideal stuff too. While I'm careful to remove all previous caulking, I can't say with certainty that I adequately cleaned the surface first.
Okay, so that wasn't just me then. I thought those looked like ass.Well it also will give you a chance to redo the miter joints……….
I was thinking if you went 1/4 round, you might not get that “out in space” look on the one piece.Okay, so that wasn't just me then. I thought those looked like ass.
1/4 round what? Router bit?I was thinking if you went 1/4 round, you might not get that “out in space” look on the one piece.
I was thinking if you went 1/4 round, you might not get that “out in space” look on the one piece.
That's a good solution for the misalignment, but I think (I could be wrong) that he was referring to how the front of the faux base is sitting over the edge of the concrete.A file (or sandpaper wrapped around a dowel) and decent caulk job will hide most of the miter misalignment. Replacing the trim would look better, but would cost more.
The danger of this sort of repair reminds me of the old kid’s song. “…….the shin bone is connected to the leg bone, the leg bone is connected to the thigh bone, the thigh bone……….”That's a good solution for the misalignment, but I think (I could be wrong) that he was referring to how the front of the faux base is sitting over the edge of the concrete.
That thing was really phoned in.
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