Yet another home maintenance question: exterior caulking

[Cardinal]

What's a consumer grade outdoor caulking/sealant that won't do this?



"How many years ago was that done, Cardinal?"

Oh, just last Fall.

That was Sherwin Williams exterior sealant, and it did that in a couple weeks. Now it's warm weather again and it's time to take another stab at it, and this time do it right so Mrs. Cardinal loves me again.

All of my internet researching leads me to websites that are nothing more than Amazon aggregates, ranked by nothing more than their fake ratings. Other industrial/construction grade sealants require that I be a construction business and quite specifically won't mail to home addresses.

Who makes the good stuff?

 

[Rexedgar]

What's a consumer grade outdoor caulking/sealant that won't do this?

View attachment 67387289

"How many years ago was that done, Cardinal?"

Oh, just last Fall.

That was Sherwin Williams exterior sealant, and it did that in a couple weeks. Now it's warm weather again and it's time to take another stab at it, and this time do it right so Mrs. Cardinal loves me again.

All of my internet researching leads me to websites that are nothing more than Amazon aggregates, ranked by nothing more than their fake ratings. Other industrial/construction grade sealants require that I be a construction business and quite specifically won't mail to home addresses.

Who makes the good stuff?

What did it look like when it was applied?

Is the column clad with aluminum or plastic?
Looks like wood molding. Dissimilar materials contract and expand at different rates.
Did you use something other than your finger to apply the caulk?

This tool beats a finger:

I have never been able to apply caulk without a couple of rolls of paper towels. I have always used DAP and GE.

 

[Cardinal]

What did it look like when it was applied?

It looked nearly perfect. In the last two years I've gotten good enough at caulking so it doesn't look like somebody's 12 year old kid did it.

Is the column clad with aluminum or plastic?
Looks like wood molding. Dissimilar materials contract and expand at different rates.
Did you use something other than your finger to apply the caulk?

This tool beats a finger: View attachment 67387293

I have never been able to apply caulk without a couple of rolls of paper towels. I have always used DAP and GE.

This thing:

 

[bluesmoke]

What are these pillars for? Come with the house new, add-on by prior owner, by yourself? Did you apply from the tube only or also smooth out and how? Was the surface totally clean and dry? It just looks to me like you've got a bit of a problem that might be only caulking.

 

[Cardinal]

What are these pillars for? Come with the house new, add-on by prior owner, by yourself? Did you apply from the tube only or also smooth out and how? Was the surface totally clean and dry? It just looks to me like you've got a bit of a problem that might be only caulking.

I forgot to answer that. Came with the house, and they're load bearing. I'm pretty sure the exterior is plastic.

 

[humbolt]

There are various brands of urethane-based caulks that perform well. Sikaflex is one such product. You should look for that type of caulk at construction supply providers. Or, you can see if Lowes or Home Depot carry a similar product in your area. Tooling such a product can be difficult, but if you cut the tip of the tube correctly, you may avoid it altogether. Otherwise, you may need to use diluted dish detergent or perhaps Windex on the caulk surface before you attempt to shape it.

 

[ttwtt78640]

What's a consumer grade outdoor caulking/sealant that won't do this?

View attachment 67387289

"How many years ago was that done, Cardinal?"

Oh, just last Fall.

That was Sherwin Williams exterior sealant, and it did that in a couple weeks. Now it's warm weather again and it's time to take another stab at it, and this time do it right so Mrs. Cardinal loves me again.

All of my internet researching leads me to websites that are nothing more than Amazon aggregates, ranked by nothing more than their fake ratings. Other industrial/construction grade sealants require that I be a construction business and quite specifically won't mail to home addresses.

Who makes the good stuff?

The (pictured) problem is not caused by the quality of the caulk - it’s the lack of applying it correctly. Use any paintable (pure silicone is not - latex paints will not stick to it) exterior (not the cheapest ‘painters’ interior) caulk rated at 35 years or better. The surface should prepped (free of old caulk globs and dust) then the caulk applied (correctly filling any gaps) in a continuous bead and smoothed.





The (small) job pictured above is from the replacement of an old (worn out) sliding (patio) door with a normal (out swing) entry door.

 

[mike2810]

I have good luck with DAP dynaflex

DYNAFLEX ULTRA™ Advanced Exterior Sealant | DAP Global

Powered by innovative Weather Max Technology™ for long-lasting, All Weather Protection.

www.dap.com

 

[trouble13]

Use exterior silicone

 

[ttwtt78640]

I have good luck with DAP dynaflex

DYNAFLEX ULTRA™ Advanced Exterior Sealant | DAP Global

Powered by innovative Weather Max Technology™ for long-lasting, All Weather Protection.

www.dap.com

I normally use this:

https://www.lowes.com/pd/DAP-Alex-Plus-10-1-oz-White-Paintable-Latex-Caulk/3053791

They also make a “quick dry” version, but this dries plenty fast and costs less. Buying it in 12 packs saves about $.60/tube.

 

[ttwtt78640]

Use exterior silicone

Many (pure) silicone caulks are not paintable - latex paints will bead up on it.

 

[Rexedgar]

The (pictured) problem is not caused by the quality of the caulk - it’s the lack of applying it correctly. Use any paintable (pure silicone is not - latex paints will not stick to it) exterior (not the cheapest ‘painters’ interior) caulk rated at 35 years or better. The surface should prepped (free of old caulk globs and dust) then the caulk applied (correctly filling any gaps) in a continuous bead and smoothed.



View attachment 67387300

The (small) job pictured above is from the replacement of an old (worn out) sliding (patio) door with a normal (out swing) entry door.

How much weather is that door exposed to?

@Cardinal ‘s looks like it’s exposed to direct sun and rain…….makes a big difference, in my experience.

 

[trouble13]

Many (pure) silicone caulks are not paintable - latex paints will bead up on it.

You can get it in white which that pillar is

 

[Rexedgar]

@Cardinal

I have to agree with @ttwtt78640

the greatest factor in successful caulking and painting is surface preparation.

 

[ttwtt78640]

How much weather is that door exposed to?

@Cardinal ‘s looks like it’s exposed to direct sun and rain…….makes a big difference, in my experience.

That’s why it’s a good idea to paint over the caulk and to make sure that the surface was clean enough to allow the caulk to properly adhere. That door is under a corrugated plastic awning, but the picture was taken immediately after the painting was done.

 

[ttwtt78640]

You can get it in white which that pillar is

Yep, but rarely is white actually (pure) white. I have found that silicone caulk easily pulls out and it costs more. I use silicone caulk in places which won’t be painted - usually around sinks, tubs and toilets, but it’s very important to get the surfaces clean or it won’t adhere well.

 

[Cardinal]

How much weather is that door exposed to?

@Cardinal ‘s looks like it’s exposed to direct sun and rain…….makes a big difference, in my experience.

little to no sun, lots of other elements.

 

[Cardinal]

@Cardinal

I have to agree with @ttwtt78640

the greatest factor in successful caulking and painting is surface preparation.

I think it's fair to say that the prep wasn't quite there, but that I almost certainly wasn't using ideal stuff too. While I'm careful to remove all previous caulking, I can't say with certainty that I adequately cleaned the surface first.

 

[Rexedgar]

I think it's fair to say that the prep wasn't quite there, but that I almost certainly wasn't using ideal stuff too. While I'm careful to remove all previous caulking, I can't say with certainty that I adequately cleaned the surface first.

Well it also will give you a chance to redo the miter joints……….

 

[Cardinal]

Well it also will give you a chance to redo the miter joints……….

Okay, so that wasn't just me then. I thought those looked like ass.

 

[Rexedgar]

Okay, so that wasn't just me then. I thought those looked like ass.

I was thinking if you went 1/4 round, you might not get that “out in space” look on the one piece.

 

[Cardinal]

I was thinking if you went 1/4 round, you might not get that “out in space” look on the one piece.

1/4 round what? Router bit?

 

[ttwtt78640]

I was thinking if you went 1/4 round, you might not get that “out in space” look on the one piece.

A file (or sandpaper wrapped around a dowel) and decent caulk job will hide most of the miter misalignment. Replacing the trim would look better, but would cost more.

 

[Cardinal]

A file (or sandpaper wrapped around a dowel) and decent caulk job will hide most of the miter misalignment. Replacing the trim would look better, but would cost more.

That's a good solution for the misalignment, but I think (I could be wrong) that he was referring to how the front of the faux base is sitting over the edge of the concrete.

That thing was really phoned in.

 

[Rexedgar]

That's a good solution for the misalignment, but I think (I could be wrong) that he was referring to how the front of the faux base is sitting over the edge of the concrete.

That thing was really phoned in.

The danger of this sort of repair reminds me of the old kid’s song. “…….the shin bone is connected to the leg bone, the leg bone is connected to the thigh bone, the thigh bone……….”

or that old sweater where you begin to pull one one loose thread……..