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replacing old plug question

A gazillion old 1950's window air conditioners managed to use those old outlets just fine.
Those “gazillion” 1950s A/C units were plugged in late May and not unplugged until the cooler days of September. I believe the jointer will go through many plug/unplug cycles and that outlet isn’t going to hold up in the long term. That is why I would recommend a commercial grade outlet.
 
Those “gazillion” 1950s A/C units were plugged in late May and not unplugged until the cooler days of September. I believe the jointer will go through many plug/unplug cycles and that outlet isn’t going to hold up in the long term. That is why I would recommend a commercial grade outlet.

I’m not going to dismiss your concern because I believe you know what you’re talking about, even if others here who are qualified to disagree with you disagree. Therefore I’ll go with a compromise: I’ll keep the extension cord permanently plugged into the receptacle and have it looped on a hook when not in use.

Frankly, that seems like a more functional and convenient way to do it anyway.
 
I’m not going to dismiss your concern because I believe you know what you’re talking about, even if others here who are qualified to disagree with you disagree. Therefore I’ll go with a compromise: I’ll keep the extension cord permanently plugged into the receptacle and have it looped on a hook when not in use.

Frankly, that seems like a more functional and convenient way to do it anyway.

I wouldn’t worry about “wearing out” an outlet which costs under $7 to replace (in a decade or two).
 
Not so much the plugging/unplugging that will wear out an outlet as is the heating and cooling of the internals from high draw items over time.
 
Those “gazillion” 1950s A/C units were plugged in late May and not unplugged until the cooler days of September. I believe the jointer will go through many plug/unplug cycles and that outlet isn’t going to hold up in the long term. That is why I would recommend a commercial grade outlet.
You make a good point and changing over to a more heavy duty outlet and plug is not going to do any harm for sure. And as you say, it may hold up better.
I would just go with something similar to what gets used on most electric clothes dryers.
 
AC Doesn't have polarity. That's DC. Or rather AC goes back and forth. But all houses are single phase so all the circuits will be in sync with each other.
I stand corrected. The phases are 180 degrees apart. Is a sense opposing polatity.
 
I wouldn’t worry about “wearing out” an outlet which costs under $7 to replace (in a decade or two).
And I agree, but I think it's an elegant solution just the same because that outlet will only serve one function, and looping the extension cord on a hook right next to the outlet while not in use will keep things neat and tidy.
 
You make a good point and changing over to a more heavy duty outlet and plug is not going to do any harm for sure. And as you say, it may hold up better.
I would just go with something similar to what gets used on most electric clothes dryers.
That style plug is more for a welder. The jointer will work with the smaller 220 plug. That dryer type is is not meant for frequent in and outs, IMO.
 
I stand corrected. The phases are 180 degrees apart. Is a sense opposing polatity.
Not trying to be mean, but I have to correct you again. The three phases are 120 degrees out of phase with each other.
 
That style plug is more for a welder. The jointer will work with the smaller 220 plug. That dryer type is is not meant for frequent in and outs, IMO.
This is correct, at least as far as the original builder of my home intended. In my circuit box, the receptacle is labeled "welder/heater."
 
Not trying to be mean, but I have to correct you again. The three phases are 120 degrees out of phase with each other.
Not on a home system. I have worked with 208 and 480 volt three phase. I do know the differences. Home systems are two hots of opposing phases. It it were three phase, hot to hot would read 208 volts if a tap to neural or ground read 120 volts.

I like 480 three phase. 480 volts across two hots, 277 volts hot to neutral. Easy to use smaller gauge wire and power some beefy equipment.

Now in most industrial and some commercial setting, you would be correct. But it would be 208 volts between two hots and 120 volts hot to neutral.
 
Which is overkill for the tool in question, IMO.
Yep. You don't need that large of a plug. It won't fit t in the receptacle anyway. They are physically larger.
 
Not on a home system. I have worked with 208 and 480 volt three phase. I do know the differences. Home systems are two hots of opposing phases. It it were three phase, hot to hot would read 208 volts if a tap to neural or ground read 120 volts.

I like 480 three phase. 480 volts across two hots, 277 volts hot to neutral. Easy to use smaller gauge wire and power some beefy equipment.

Now in most industrial and some commercial setting, you would be correct. But it would be 208 volts between two hots and 120 volts hot to neutral.
Can you provide me some support on this? Last I knew power generation even for civilian home use is still 3 phase, still at a 120 degree offset. Which means that even if you do tap off it with two phases there will still be the 120 offset. Even two phase generation (which is no longer done), as opposed to tap off, is done with a 90 degree offset. But to my knowledge, each house is only tapping into a single phase, which means even when you double up a breaker for 240 volt, it's still only one phase.
 
Can you provide me some support on this? Last I knew power generation even for civilian home use is still 3 phase, still at a 120 degree offset. Which means that even if you do tap off it with two phases there will still be the 120 offset. Even two phase generation (which is no longer done), as opposed to tap off, is done with a 90 degree offset. But to my knowledge, each house is only tapping into a single phase, which means even when you double up a breaker for 240 volt, it's still only one phase.
Grid power is three phase, but to a home, they only tap off of one phase:

iu



Opposing phases are 180 degrees apart.
 
Grid power is three phase, but to a home, they only tap off of one phase:

iu



Opposing phases are 180 degrees apart.
First, how are you getting opposing phases, if the house is only getting one phase? Secondly, Your link does not mention anything about how 240 is two opposing phases. In fact it shows the opposite. 240 is what goes from the line to the panel, but is tapped off the center of the transformer to supply two 120 supplies that the breakers go on. By setting across the full transformer, you can use the 240 supply, but it is still a single phase, because it is single phase 240 coming into the house. Please describe to me how to completely invert a phase.
 
So, good news and bad news. The good news is that I got my 12 awg extension cord, hooked up the new switch box, plugged it in (using the crappy old plug because the new one hasn't arrived yet) and ran the motor. It ran...perfectly. (Although there really wasn't any question of that since it ran perfectly when testing it at the previous owner's home. The only reason for my doubt is because I'm not confident in my electrical skills and was nervous about wiring the new switch box incorrectly).

Here's the bad news. That crappy old switch box unit I took out because it was gummy and non-responsive? Underneath that super friendly looking responsive face of the Powertec switch box you see on the jointer now is...the same exact gummy and non-responsive unit. So the non-responsiveness of the unit originally on the jointer wasn't a symptom of age, but bad design. As you can see, I've got a very specific space to put the switch box in, so if all these third party switch boxes have the same unit in them, what do I do?

I'm never going to be okay with a powerful and dangerous power tool having a poor responsive switch on it. That's a total nonstarter.

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SO to rephrase, to ensure that I understand, the old push button switch unit is the problem, but anything that you can get to replace it is not the right size for the space the old one occupied? If so too big or too small? New switch size.
 
SO to rephrase, to ensure that I understand, the old push button switch unit is the problem, but anything that you can get to replace it is not the right size for the space the old one occupied? If so too big or too small? New switch size.
What I'm saying is that the unit you see lying on my table appears to be a standard switch box, and it's constructed very badly. Unfortunately, the space for my switch box is made for that standard switch box. And that switch box sucks because of the poor button responsiveness.

So just in case I'm being unclear, that standard switch box is the same exact design for the original jointer as the one for the new powertec one I got on Amazon.
 
So, good news and bad news. The good news is that I got my 12 awg extension cord, hooked up the new switch box, plugged it in (using the crappy old plug because the new one hasn't arrived yet) and ran the motor. It ran...perfectly. (Although there really wasn't any question of that since it ran perfectly when testing it at the previous owner's home. The only reason for my doubt is because I'm not confident in my electrical skills and was nervous about wiring the new switch box incorrectly).

Here's the bad news. That crappy old switch box unit I took out because it was gummy and non-responsive? Underneath that super friendly looking responsive face of the Powertec switch box you see on the jointer now is...the same exact gummy and non-responsive unit. So the non-responsiveness of the unit originally on the jointer wasn't a symptom of age, but bad design. As you can see, I've got a very specific space to put the switch box in, so if all these third party switch boxes have the same unit in them, what do I do?

I'm never going to be okay with a powerful and dangerous power tool having a poor responsive switch on it. That's a total nonstarter.

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I’m confused. What do you mean by the motor ran fine but the switch is “unresponsive”? Are you saying that the unit runs whenever it is plugged in and the switch (regardless of new or original) doesn’t make the motor stop (or start)?
 
I’m confused. What do you mean by the motor ran fine but the “gummy” switch is unresponsive? Are you saying that the unit runs whenever it is plugged in and the switch (regardless of new or original)\ doesn’t make the motor stop (or start)?

It means that you have to push the shit out of the buttons to turn it on and off. It's not a wiring problem, but bad physical responsiveness of the buttons themselves.
 
Here, I'm overcomplicating my explanation. As another unhappy Amazon buyer said:

"Looks well built but the buttons are hard to depress, making frequent on and off's difficult."

The buttons are hard to press.

And that's not the fault of the Powertec face plate, but the fault of the switch box design underneath it. Powertec just took a really shitty switch box module and put their own face on it.
 
It means that you have to push the shit out of the buttons to turn it on and off. It's not a wiring problem, but bad physical responsiveness of the buttons themselves.

OK, then your ‘issue’ (problem) is the amount of force (pressure?) required to operate the start or stop buttons isn’t to your liking (i.e. the buttons are too hard to press).
 
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