It's amazing the difference in the atmosphere everywhere you go. We rented a car (driving in Havana can be, uh, stimulating) and hit the road and everywhere we went the tourists were, as you say, jovial, and the locals were welcoming, being used to getting respect from the tourists.
A fond memory is staying in a casa particulaire in Trinidad, a very old town on the west coast, at Easter, and our hostess, Marelli, warned us that it was too cold for swimming! She took us under her wing and cautioned us, from her Catholic morality, to stay away from the hotel beaches because the European women were topless!