- Joined
- Mar 11, 2006
- Messages
- 96,116
- Reaction score
- 33,462
- Location
- SE Virginia
- Gender
- Male
- Political Leaning
- Conservative
You might consider making the entire space a wet area, so one floor drain for the whole small space, the shower would occupy an undivided corner.So I'm converting the small nook off my kitchen into a full bath if possible. The space if very tight about 4'9"x5'7". I'm trying to figure out how to fit small components into it. Seems the smallest shower is about 32", and the sink will likely be a corner sink (31"x24") on the same wall, adjacent corner as the shower. I'm leaving the other adjacent corner to the sink for the toilet. A 24" door (opening outward to the kitchen) will be adjacent the shower. Bathroom fixtures, stalls, vanities/sinks are extremely expensive these days. And those aren't even the highest quality items (Home Depot/Lowes). I'm trying to decides if I should put tile in behind the shower or use a kit; because the kits aren't cheap.
Have you considered architectural salvage for the fixtures? Even Craig's List for the toilet and sink, as people are always changing/upgrading their bathrooms. You might just get lucky.So I'm converting the small nook off my kitchen into a full bath if possible. The space if very tight about 4'9"x5'7". I'm trying to figure out how to fit small components into it. Seems the smallest shower is about 32", and the sink will likely be a corner sink (31"x24") on the same wall, adjacent corner as the shower. I'm leaving the other adjacent corner to the sink for the toilet. A 24" door (opening outward to the kitchen) will be adjacent the shower. Bathroom fixtures, stalls, vanities/sinks are extremely expensive these days. And those aren't even the highest quality items (Home Depot/Lowes). I'm trying to decide if I should put tile in behind the shower or use a kit; because the kits aren't cheap.
Interesting, but it would require the floors to be completely waterproof.You might consider making the entire space a wet area, so one floor drain for the whole small space, the shower would occupy an undivided corner.
I saw one set up like this on a ship, where space was very limited.
That's a good idea, but I think I'd at least go new on the toilet.Have you considered architectural salvage for the fixtures? Even Craig's List for the toilet and sink, as people are always changing/upgrading their bathrooms. You might just get lucky.
Yes, they make liners to go under the tile, but it could save a lot of space, I also remember that it helps to have the door open out, to save the swing area.Interesting, but it would require the floors to be completely waterproof.
The door is already part of the plan.Yes, they make liners to go under the tile, but it could save a lot of space, I also remember that it helps to have the door open out, to save the swing area.
You know how much their fixtures are?Maybe look into how RV bathrooms are designed.
Interesting design. The spray nozzle would make it really easy to clean that toilet too.
I was thinking in terms of innovative space utilization.You know how much their fixtures are?
They do tend to be more efficient in their use of H2O.That's a good idea, but I think I'd at least go new on the toilet.
That and if you get a stomach flu, this room is really easy to clean up after you're done from blasting out of all the holes.Thats very functional.
You could drop a big smelly trump right while you're showering, then turn the shower nozzle loose on your don-hole afterwards and blast away any remaining shatspatter.
Right down the drain, easy peasy. I'd support that.
I vote for this design here.
So I'm converting the small nook off my kitchen into a full bath if possible. The space if very tight about 4'9"x5'7". I'm trying to figure out how to fit small components into it. Seems the smallest shower is about 32", and the sink will likely be a corner sink (31"x24") on the same wall, adjacent corner as the shower. I'm leaving the other adjacent corner to the sink for the toilet. A 24" door (opening outward to the kitchen) will be adjacent the shower. Bathroom fixtures, stalls, vanities/sinks are extremely expensive these days. And those aren't even the highest quality items (Home Depot/Lowes). I'm trying to decide if I should put tile in behind the shower or use a kit; because the kits aren't cheap.
My dad told me that every hour spent on paper, was worth about 5 hours of actually doing the task!The dwv plumbing lines take priority over everything, for the toilet especially. You have to look underneath and plan how you will run the 3" waste line for the toilet and how you are going to tie it into the main sewer line of the house, and it has to pitch at least an 1/8" per foot. All three fixtures have to be vented as well, so you need to figure out how you are going to tie the vents into the stack.
If you are going to go with tile, (and I suggest you do not, for a low cost easy bathroom), the floor framing will need to be beefed up. I reframe every floor for every bathroom, because in the end, it's easier to just rip it all out and reframe it properly, and frame boxes for the toilet and shower plumbing. Framing for tile floors and walls have to be dead flat and stiff. If the floor has too much deflection, the tile will crack.
Building a waterproof shower is not easy. If you screw up one small detail it will leak, and there's no patching it up, it will have to ripped out and redone. Unless you have some experience in this area, I strongly suggest a fiberglass shower stall. The biggest mistake when installing them is having them squeak when you step in. If you still want tile, another option is a fiberglass base with tile walls.
Make sure you have enough room around the toilet. You need about 16" from the center on each side, or it will be uncomfortable for people to use.
If you put a vanity in, make sure the doors can open freely without knocking into anything.
The shower is the biggest space taker upper in a small bath, see if you can steal some space from whatever is on the other side of the walls in the nook. Sometimes you can build the shower into a wall if there's a closet or hallway on the other side.
For something like this you need to do a lot of planning. Figure everything out down to the last detail before you start building it.
This house is a 1932 Sears Craftsman Bungalow, the lumber if heavier than today, and the span is about 5'. I think it'll be sufficient. I agree with you 100% on the rest of your post.The dwv plumbing lines take priority over everything, for the toilet especially. You have to look underneath and plan how you will run the 3" waste line for the toilet and how you are going to tie it into the main sewer line of the house, and it has to pitch at least an 1/8" per foot. All three fixtures have to be vented as well, so you need to figure out how you are going to tie the vents into the stack.
If you are going to go with tile, (and I suggest you do not, for a low cost easy bathroom), the floor framing will need to be beefed up. I reframe every floor for every bathroom, because in the end, it's easier to just rip it all out and reframe it properly, and frame boxes for the toilet and shower plumbing. Framing for tile floors and walls have to be dead flat and stiff. If the floor has too much deflection, the tile will crack.
Building a waterproof shower is not easy. If you screw up one small detail it will leak, and there's no patching it up, it will have to ripped out and redone. Unless you have some experience in this area, I strongly suggest a fiberglass shower stall. The biggest mistake when installing them is having them squeak when you step in. If you still want tile, another option is a fiberglass base with tile walls.
Make sure you have enough room around the toilet. You need about 16" from the center on each side, or it will be uncomfortable for people to use.
If you put a vanity in, make sure the doors can open freely without knocking into anything.
The shower is the biggest space taker upper in a small bath, see if you can steal some space from whatever is on the other side of the walls in the nook. Sometimes you can build the shower into a wall if there's a closet or hallway on the other side.
For something like this you need to do a lot of planning. Figure everything out down to the last detail before you start building it.
It's configured like #1. Except there's no wall on the door side yet.I thought about that a template with several scaled items might help, for the sink I picked a narrow one from home depot.
Home Depot Narrow Sink
I tried to include every possible door combination, but the door may be centered, I hope this helps.
View attachment 67376168
That is really small. Do you need a second shower? If it was me I'd leave it as a nice 2 piece, if there's another shower in the house.So I'm converting the small nook off my kitchen into a full bath if possible. The space if very tight about 4'9"x5'7". I'm trying to figure out how to fit small components into it. Seems the smallest shower is about 32", and the sink will likely be a corner sink (31"x24") on the same wall, adjacent corner as the shower. I'm leaving the other adjacent corner to the sink for the toilet. A 24" door (opening outward to the kitchen) will be adjacent the shower. Bathroom fixtures, stalls, vanities/sinks are extremely expensive these days. And those aren't even the highest quality items (Home Depot/Lowes). I'm trying to decide if I should put tile in behind the shower or use a kit; because the kits aren't cheap.
Yes, there's the one main bathroom. It's for added value, and for me when I tear up the other bathroom.That is really small. Do you need a second shower? If it was me I'd leave it as a nice 2 piece, if there's another shower in the house.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?