• This is a political forum that is non-biased/non-partisan and treats every person's position on topics equally. This debate forum is not aligned to any political party. In today's politics, many ideas are split between and even within all the political parties. Often we find ourselves agreeing on one platform but some topics break our mold. We are here to discuss them in a civil political debate. If this is your first visit to our political forums, be sure to check out the RULES. Registering for debate politics is necessary before posting. Register today to participate - it's free!

New bathroom

American

Trump Grump Whisperer
DP Veteran
Monthly Donator
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
96,041
Reaction score
33,367
Location
SE Virginia
Gender
Male
Political Leaning
Conservative
So I'm converting the small nook off my kitchen into a full bath if possible. The space if very tight about 4'9"x5'7". I'm trying to figure out how to fit small components into it. Seems the smallest shower is about 32", and the sink will likely be a corner sink (31"x24") on the same wall, adjacent corner as the shower. I'm leaving the other adjacent corner to the sink for the toilet. A 24" door (opening outward to the kitchen) will be adjacent the shower. Bathroom fixtures, stalls, vanities/sinks are extremely expensive these days. And those aren't even the highest quality items (Home Depot/Lowes). I'm trying to decide if I should put tile in behind the shower or use a kit; because the kits aren't cheap.
 
Last edited:
So I'm converting the small nook off my kitchen into a full bath if possible. The space if very tight about 4'9"x5'7". I'm trying to figure out how to fit small components into it. Seems the smallest shower is about 32", and the sink will likely be a corner sink (31"x24") on the same wall, adjacent corner as the shower. I'm leaving the other adjacent corner to the sink for the toilet. A 24" door (opening outward to the kitchen) will be adjacent the shower. Bathroom fixtures, stalls, vanities/sinks are extremely expensive these days. And those aren't even the highest quality items (Home Depot/Lowes). I'm trying to decides if I should put tile in behind the shower or use a kit; because the kits aren't cheap.
You might consider making the entire space a wet area, so one floor drain for the whole small space, the shower would occupy an undivided corner.
I saw one set up like this on a ship, where space was very limited.
 
So I'm converting the small nook off my kitchen into a full bath if possible. The space if very tight about 4'9"x5'7". I'm trying to figure out how to fit small components into it. Seems the smallest shower is about 32", and the sink will likely be a corner sink (31"x24") on the same wall, adjacent corner as the shower. I'm leaving the other adjacent corner to the sink for the toilet. A 24" door (opening outward to the kitchen) will be adjacent the shower. Bathroom fixtures, stalls, vanities/sinks are extremely expensive these days. And those aren't even the highest quality items (Home Depot/Lowes). I'm trying to decide if I should put tile in behind the shower or use a kit; because the kits aren't cheap.
Have you considered architectural salvage for the fixtures? Even Craig's List for the toilet and sink, as people are always changing/upgrading their bathrooms. You might just get lucky.
 
You might consider making the entire space a wet area, so one floor drain for the whole small space, the shower would occupy an undivided corner.
I saw one set up like this on a ship, where space was very limited.
Interesting, but it would require the floors to be completely waterproof.
 
Have you considered architectural salvage for the fixtures? Even Craig's List for the toilet and sink, as people are always changing/upgrading their bathrooms. You might just get lucky.
That's a good idea, but I think I'd at least go new on the toilet.
 
Interesting, but it would require the floors to be completely waterproof.
Yes, they make liners to go under the tile, but it could save a lot of space, I also remember that it helps to have the door open out, to save the swing area.
 
Yes, they make liners to go under the tile, but it could save a lot of space, I also remember that it helps to have the door open out, to save the swing area.
The door is already part of the plan.
 
When I bought my present house, the second bathroom had an old plastic-type shower in closure...that pretty much suck and was splitting.
After looking at the cost of a new one, I bought a book (Think from Lowes?) on how to "Do" tile and such. Read the book and figured the price and the
bottom line was ..I saved quite a bit. Actually doing the tile and stuff was much easier than I thought..plus it will probably help in some other part of the house someday.
Just a thought.
PS: Some of those enclosed little shower cubicles are made from cheap ass plastic that seem to deteriorate horribly after a few years.
The good ones are Whoa!..expensive.
 
BTW, I'm trying to avoid opening too many walls. It's a 90 year old house with plaster over plaster board (sheetrock). Plaster is nasty to cut.
 

Thats very functional.

You could drop a big smelly trump right while you're showering, then turn the shower nozzle loose on your don-hole afterwards and blast away any remaining shatspatter.

Right down the drain, easy peasy. I'd support that.
I vote for this design here.(y)
 
Thats very functional.

You could drop a big smelly trump right while you're showering, then turn the shower nozzle loose on your don-hole afterwards and blast away any remaining shatspatter.

Right down the drain, easy peasy. I'd support that.
I vote for this design here.(y)
That and if you get a stomach flu, this room is really easy to clean up after you're done from blasting out of all the holes.
 
I thought about that a template with several scaled items might help, for the sink I picked a narrow one from home depot.
Home Depot Narrow Sink
I tried to include every possible door combination, but the door may be centered, I hope this helps.
1645539368875.png
 
So I'm converting the small nook off my kitchen into a full bath if possible. The space if very tight about 4'9"x5'7". I'm trying to figure out how to fit small components into it. Seems the smallest shower is about 32", and the sink will likely be a corner sink (31"x24") on the same wall, adjacent corner as the shower. I'm leaving the other adjacent corner to the sink for the toilet. A 24" door (opening outward to the kitchen) will be adjacent the shower. Bathroom fixtures, stalls, vanities/sinks are extremely expensive these days. And those aren't even the highest quality items (Home Depot/Lowes). I'm trying to decide if I should put tile in behind the shower or use a kit; because the kits aren't cheap.

The dwv plumbing lines take priority over everything, for the toilet especially. You have to look underneath and plan how you will run the 3" waste line for the toilet and how you are going to tie it into the main sewer line of the house, and it has to pitch at least an 1/8" per foot. All three fixtures have to be vented as well, so you need to figure out how you are going to tie the vents into the stack.

If you are going to go with tile, (and I suggest you do not, for a low cost easy bathroom), the floor framing will need to be beefed up. I reframe every floor for every bathroom, because in the end, it's easier to just rip it all out and reframe it properly, and frame boxes for the toilet and shower plumbing. Framing for tile floors and walls have to be dead flat and stiff. If the floor has too much deflection, the tile will crack.

Building a waterproof shower is not easy. If you screw up one small detail it will leak, and there's no patching it up, it will have to ripped out and redone. Unless you have some experience in this area, I strongly suggest a fiberglass shower stall. The biggest mistake when installing them is having them squeak when you step in. If you still want tile, another option is a fiberglass base with tile walls.

Make sure you have enough room around the toilet. You need about 16" from the center on each side, or it will be uncomfortable for people to use.

If you put a vanity in, make sure the doors can open freely without knocking into anything.

The shower is the biggest space taker upper in a small bath, see if you can steal some space from whatever is on the other side of the walls in the nook. Sometimes you can build the shower into a wall if there's a closet or hallway on the other side.

For something like this you need to do a lot of planning. Figure everything out down to the last detail before you start building it.
 
The dwv plumbing lines take priority over everything, for the toilet especially. You have to look underneath and plan how you will run the 3" waste line for the toilet and how you are going to tie it into the main sewer line of the house, and it has to pitch at least an 1/8" per foot. All three fixtures have to be vented as well, so you need to figure out how you are going to tie the vents into the stack.

If you are going to go with tile, (and I suggest you do not, for a low cost easy bathroom), the floor framing will need to be beefed up. I reframe every floor for every bathroom, because in the end, it's easier to just rip it all out and reframe it properly, and frame boxes for the toilet and shower plumbing. Framing for tile floors and walls have to be dead flat and stiff. If the floor has too much deflection, the tile will crack.

Building a waterproof shower is not easy. If you screw up one small detail it will leak, and there's no patching it up, it will have to ripped out and redone. Unless you have some experience in this area, I strongly suggest a fiberglass shower stall. The biggest mistake when installing them is having them squeak when you step in. If you still want tile, another option is a fiberglass base with tile walls.

Make sure you have enough room around the toilet. You need about 16" from the center on each side, or it will be uncomfortable for people to use.

If you put a vanity in, make sure the doors can open freely without knocking into anything.

The shower is the biggest space taker upper in a small bath, see if you can steal some space from whatever is on the other side of the walls in the nook. Sometimes you can build the shower into a wall if there's a closet or hallway on the other side.

For something like this you need to do a lot of planning. Figure everything out down to the last detail before you start building it.
My dad told me that every hour spent on paper, was worth about 5 hours of actually doing the task!
 
The dwv plumbing lines take priority over everything, for the toilet especially. You have to look underneath and plan how you will run the 3" waste line for the toilet and how you are going to tie it into the main sewer line of the house, and it has to pitch at least an 1/8" per foot. All three fixtures have to be vented as well, so you need to figure out how you are going to tie the vents into the stack.

If you are going to go with tile, (and I suggest you do not, for a low cost easy bathroom), the floor framing will need to be beefed up. I reframe every floor for every bathroom, because in the end, it's easier to just rip it all out and reframe it properly, and frame boxes for the toilet and shower plumbing. Framing for tile floors and walls have to be dead flat and stiff. If the floor has too much deflection, the tile will crack.

Building a waterproof shower is not easy. If you screw up one small detail it will leak, and there's no patching it up, it will have to ripped out and redone. Unless you have some experience in this area, I strongly suggest a fiberglass shower stall. The biggest mistake when installing them is having them squeak when you step in. If you still want tile, another option is a fiberglass base with tile walls.

Make sure you have enough room around the toilet. You need about 16" from the center on each side, or it will be uncomfortable for people to use.

If you put a vanity in, make sure the doors can open freely without knocking into anything.

The shower is the biggest space taker upper in a small bath, see if you can steal some space from whatever is on the other side of the walls in the nook. Sometimes you can build the shower into a wall if there's a closet or hallway on the other side.

For something like this you need to do a lot of planning. Figure everything out down to the last detail before you start building it.
This house is a 1932 Sears Craftsman Bungalow, the lumber if heavier than today, and the span is about 5'. I think it'll be sufficient. I agree with you 100% on the rest of your post.
 
Last edited:
So I'm converting the small nook off my kitchen into a full bath if possible. The space if very tight about 4'9"x5'7". I'm trying to figure out how to fit small components into it. Seems the smallest shower is about 32", and the sink will likely be a corner sink (31"x24") on the same wall, adjacent corner as the shower. I'm leaving the other adjacent corner to the sink for the toilet. A 24" door (opening outward to the kitchen) will be adjacent the shower. Bathroom fixtures, stalls, vanities/sinks are extremely expensive these days. And those aren't even the highest quality items (Home Depot/Lowes). I'm trying to decide if I should put tile in behind the shower or use a kit; because the kits aren't cheap.
That is really small. Do you need a second shower? If it was me I'd leave it as a nice 2 piece, if there's another shower in the house.
 
That is really small. Do you need a second shower? If it was me I'd leave it as a nice 2 piece, if there's another shower in the house.
Yes, there's the one main bathroom. It's for added value, and for me when I tear up the other bathroom.
 
Back
Top Bottom