DIY help: winterizing outdoor faucets

Jetboogieman said:

So I’ve got a bit of an issue, winter is upon us and I’ve been draining my outdoor line for awhile and there is a fair bit of distance for them to travel so the line is gonna have quite a bit of water.

Now it might be a matter of just not knowing the right term but I hope there’s some DIY people among you who could help.

the real issue is I’ve had to bleed is periodically because it’s ****ing vertical, so the main water is vertical coming up from the ground, the outdoor line branches off horizontal for about 20 centimeters then straight up with the valve and the bleed cap on the vertical part so unless there’s enough water there for it to shoot out it just dribbles everywhere.

Anyone ever had this issue, got any ideas how to catch this water so I can leave the bleed cap open for an extended period.

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Rexedgar said:

I'm having trouble with the visuals, can you sketch?

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Jetboogieman said:

I don’t have the ability to sketch it and I scoured for any diagram and picture of water lines that line resemble my setup and I came up empty so here’s my best shot.



So my main water line runs up the middle, the outdoor line branches off the left hand side and then straight up, the kill valve and the bleed cap are on the vertical section and face towards the main line and I can’t just leave the bleed cap open, put down a bucket and just let it go because it is actually a little sideways and it starts streaming out and dribbling everywhere, I dunno if there’s a diy thing I could wrap around it to move the water in just one direction.

Just worried as my far faucet has been totally dry but with I’m assuming condensation I’m still getting water out of the nearer faucet in the mornings.

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Jetboogieman said:

So I’ve got a bit of an issue, winter is upon us and I’ve been draining my outdoor line for awhile and there is a fair bit of distance for them to travel so the line is gonna have quite a bit of water.

Now it might be a matter of just not knowing the right term but I hope there’s some DIY people among you who could help.

the real issue is I’ve had to bleed is periodically because it’s ****ing vertical, so the main water is vertical coming up from the ground, the outdoor line branches off horizontal for about 20 centimeters then straight up with the valve and the bleed cap on the vertical part so unless there’s enough water there for it to shoot out it just dribbles everywhere.

Anyone ever had this issue, got any ideas how to catch this water so I can leave the bleed cap open for an extended period.

Click to expand...

ttwtt78640 said:

The bleed valve needs to be at the low point of the line(s) to be bled by gravity, otherwise compressed air must be used to force the water out. Shut off the main, open the bleed valve and then all valves on the line(s) to be bled. There may be some water left in any "bellies" in the system but with adequate room to expand if (when?) it freezes without bursting a pipe.

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Rexedgar said:

I don’t think condensation will build up enough to drain when the faucet is opened. What have you done in past winters?

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Jetboogieman said:

First time homeowner, first winter with the place and I’ve finally come to the conclusion the shut off valve must be faulty, there’s still tons of water regularly building up at the bleed valve and for whatever reason it’s still trickling up and through to the nearest spigot so I’ve had to call in plumbers, much as I hate to have to but today was the worst, it had frozen all the way into the pipe this morning so, fun times.

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Ball valves are very durable and usually have excellent shutoff even after years of use. They are generally preferred over globe valves in shutoff applications.

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ttwtt78640 said:

That (bolded above) is rarely the case with a ball valve (aka boiler valve), but if the shut off valve is a stem and seat type (like most hose bibs/sillcocks) then failure (incomplete shutoff) is quite common - usually due to mineral deposit buildup, but occasioanlly from seat washer wear.



Globe Valves vs Ball Valves | Stromquist & Company

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Rexedgar said:

Agreed; the common seat/washer is not made for the long term. I have four 12” bibs on the house (Valve actually is inside the house at the far end of the handle). The cost is about $ 25. When you buy the guts the price goes up by a few $. I am constantly preaching about folks turning the water off and the adding all the torque they can muster.

Tex, I know you know all the stuff I spelled out. Good luck, JBM, update us when you get the bill; how far north are you?

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Rexedgar said:

Agreed; the common seat/washer is not made for the long term. I have four 12” bibs on the house (Valve actually is inside the house at the far end of the handle). The cost is about $ 25. When you buy the guts the price goes up by a few $. I am constantly preaching about folks turning the water off and the adding all the torque they can muster.

Tex, I know you know all the stuff I spelled out. Good luck, JBM, update us when you get the bill; how far north are you?

Click to expand...

ttwtt78640 said:

That (bolded above) is rarely the case with a ball valve (aka boiler valve), but if the shut off valve is a stem and seat type (like most hose bibs/sillcocks) then failure (incomplete shutoff) is quite common - usually due to mineral deposit buildup, but occasioanlly from seat washer wear.

Globe Valves vs Ball Valves | Stromquist & Company

Click to expand...