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woodworking repair question

mike2810 said:
Go with your option one.

I am blessed to live in a retirement community that has a woodshop (7,000 sq foot building). We have about any imaginable piece of equipment in multiple numbers along with a good assortment of hand/power tools. Since moving here sold off all my large equipment and just kept what I need around the house.

The woodclub also has a group of members who do repairs for homeowners. They just got in a solid oak bed frame to repair.

Hope the repair goes well for you.
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I want to be in your retirement community. Are they accepting people under forty?
 
Cardinal said:
Okay, here's what I'm talking about.

1) Original whole piece (you have to imagine the gouge in the front).
2) After I run it through the table saw. The space created matches the total height and depth of the gouge.
3) Introducing a piece sawn from spare oak flooring (grain running in the right direction, of course). The piece will be a tiny bit larger than the space.
4) The new piece glued into the space, sanded and finished.

View attachment 67365807
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I see, said the blind man!

That should work, what program did you use to make the diagram?

Send some update pics! Plus a finger count, before and after……
 
Rexedgar said:
I see, said the blind man!

That should work, what program did you use to make the diagram?

Send some update pics! Plus a finger count, before and after……
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I create all my designs in Sketchup because it allows me to catch stupid ideas in real time, and long before I buy a single piece of wood or hardware. It also allows me to calculate exactly how much lumber I need, the cut list, and how efficient I can make that cut list.

I’ve been doing woodworking for a year and I have nearly all my original fingers, so I think I’m doing just fine, thankyouverymuch.
 
You might even find it easiest to just remove the feet and replace them with new ones. That would likely be the easiest fix.
 
Cardinal said:
I create all my designs in Sketchup because it allows me to catch stupid ideas in real time, and long before I buy a single piece of wood or hardware. It also allows me to calculate exactly how much lumber I need, the cut list, and how efficient I can make that cut list.

I’ve been doing woodworking for a year and I have nearly all my original fingers, so I think I’m doing just fine, thankyouverymuch.
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I downloaded the Sketchup demo many years ago and never really got the hang of it.

mike2810 said:
I guess it was done in Sketchup.
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Rexedgar said:
I downloaded the Sketchup demo many years ago and never really got the hang of it.
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It’s worth it. Watch the official YouTube “sketchup essentials” tutorials, starting with the very first intro, and work from there. The interface is intuitive and the tutorials are very clear and user friendly. I would never go back to using a pencil and paper, let alone, god forbid, winging it.
 
Rexedgar said:
I downloaded the Sketchup demo many years ago and never really got the hang of it.
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Your journey begins here. I would never learn a new program without tutorials. That’s a recipe for frustration and inevitably putting it on a shelf in the basement to collect dust forever.




So the question: is it worth the license fee? Yes. Yes, yes, yes, yes and yes. You will make up for the cost right away by saved time and unwasted materials. Also, if you have clients, you can present your models to them and they can approve and disapprove in real time without wasting money and time.
 
Rexedgar said:
I downloaded the Sketchup demo many years ago and never really got the hang of it.
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I had sketchup on my pc when it was completely free and when I was doing furniture.
The last 10 years I have gotten more into bowl turning. I use the suite of software by Lloyd Johnson called Woodturner Pro.

Welcome to Woodturner PRO - Segmented Woodturning Simplified

woodturnerpro.com

Have also gotten into some CNC carving using VCarvePro by Veteric. The woodclub has two cnc machines.

kinda lots interest in learning more about sketchup. The other software keeps me entertained.
 
mike2810 said:
I had sketchup on my pc when it was completely free and when I was doing furniture.
The last 10 years I have gotten more into bowl turning. I use the suite of software by Lloyd Johnson called Woodturner Pro.

Welcome to Woodturner PRO - Segmented Woodturning Simplified

woodturnerpro.com

Have also gotten into some CNC carving using VCarvePro by Veteric. The woodclub has two cnc machines.

kinda lots interest in learning more about sketchup. The other software keeps me entertained.
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Sketchup out of the box is geared toward simple modeling, but the rabbit hole goes just about as deep as your want once you throw in all the extensions. That roundover edge I did last page normally would have taken me half an hour, but with the extension I did it in three clicks.

Once you get into CNC and 3d printing that’s when you put on your big boy pants and move on to something like Blender.
 
Cardinal said:
Sketchup out of the box is geared toward simple modeling, but the rabbit hole goes just about as deep as your want once you throw in all the extensions. That roundover edge I did last page normally would have taken me half an hour, but with the extension I did it in three clicks.

Once you get into CNC and 3d printing that’s when you put on your big boy pants and move on to something like Blender.
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No need. I can use Aspire for 3D modeling. Also by Vetric.
 
mike2810 said:
No need. I can use Aspire for 3D modeling. Also by Vetric.
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That’s another machine-oriented program if you have a 3d printer?
 
Cardinal said:
That’s another machine-oriented program if you have a 3d printer?
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I have access to two cnc machines. One even has a lathe for doing engraving on round objects, like wooden mugs,
 
mike2810 said:
I have access to two cnc machines. One even has a lathe for doing engraving on round objects, like wooden mugs,
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That’s some retirement community. Jesus.
 
Cardinal said:
The gouge faces out. I would have seen it from outer space.
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Isn't the foot reversible on the leg so it can face in?

Two passes at right angles with the saw should leave a square/rectangular section space for a piece of flooring that size.

Much like you illustrated in the post i should have read first! :whistle:
 
Manc Skipper said:
Isn't the foot reversible on the leg so it can face in?

Two passes at right angles with the saw should leave a square/rectangular section space for a piece of flooring that size.
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Well, sure, but my idea preserves the original design.
 
Manc Skipper said:
Much like you illustrated in the post i should have read first! :whistle:
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Ah, which means I misunderstood you. I took your post to suggest just lopping off the front of both feet to create two equal square feet.
 
Cardinal said:
Ah, which means I misunderstood you. I took your post to suggest just lopping off the front of both feet to create two equal square feet.
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Any progress to report?
 
Rexedgar said:
Any progress to report?
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Yes, I finished it last week and am posting pics now. I'm all about the process, so I hope you like process shots.
 
The piece and the spare flooring I'll be using to fill in the damaged space. They both appear to be red oak with extremely similar grain, so theoretically this should work. But the old oak is darker (no big surprise there) so I'll have to go in with spot staining when all is said and done.

IMG_1850.jpg
 
Stripping the existing polyurethane.

IMG_1852.jpg
 
Adapting stains to match the rest of the frame. Seems pretty good.

IMG_1854.jpg
 
Setting the blade to the exact height of the gash in the wood. The point is to avoid the roundover edge where there isn't actually any damage.

No, I don't wear those gloves for cutting. That was just from when I was mixing the stain.

IMG_1855.jpg
 
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