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Gardeners/Lawn Experts

Rexedgar

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I know that grass is best planted in the late fall, (late Aug-mid Oct.) What can be done to fill in patches that are sparse or didn’t respond well to fall planting? I would like to not have to look at a spotty lawn the whole year?


Any green thumbs?
 
It depends on the reason for the bald spots or patches. Is it because you didn't seed and fertilize it evenly or is it something else? It can be caused by over or under watering, or grub/insect problems. You have to attack these on a case by case basis. How big are the spots?
 
I know that grass is best planted in the late fall, (late Aug-mid Oct.) What can be done to fill in patches that are sparse or didn’t respond well to fall planting? I would like to not have to look at a spotty lawn the whole year?


Any green thumbs?

My wife has a big time green thumb and I passed your question on to her. She said she would need more information, such as whether the bald patches can be explained by grubs, rocks, or toxic chemicals.

Maybe you planted too late, but if you're in a warm climate then that explanation goes right out the window.

The go-to solution is to make sure there isn't anything bad under the surface of the bald patches, then put down fertilizer and compost and lots of seed, and water generously. I've helped her in the past get extremely nutrient-rich types of soil from a compost recycling center and combine them to make a super soil, and everything grows fantastically from that.

It's also important to know what kind of grass you're using, and if it's really the best kind for your environment.
 
My wife has a big time green thumb and I passed your question on to her. She said she would need more information, such as whether the bald patches can be explained by grubs, rocks, or toxic chemicals.

Maybe you planted too late, but if you're in a warm climate then that explanation goes right out the window.

The go-to solution is to make sure there isn't anything bad under the surface of the bald patches, then put down fertilizer and compost and lots of seed, and water generously. I've helped her in the past get extremely nutrient-rich types of soil from a compost recycling center and combine them to make a super soil, and everything grows fantastically from that.

It's also important to know what kind of grass you're using, and if it's really the best kind for your environment.
We contracted a lawn service outfit a few years back. They have done a decent job. The is a 100 yo maple (sugar?) in the front yard. I know it draws moisture a nutrients from the surrounding soil. I have tried to keep it wet. This fall/winter have been unseasonably warm and wet in the mid-Atlantic. I just want to look at green instead of dirt in patches around the tree. One of the lawn guys gave me a half a bag of their seed last fall and I over seeded a few patches and they came out great. I know I used more seed per sq ft than they would. They use a brand that I don’t see everywhere. It has a real nice color. LESCO. The grubs and chemical/fertilizer issues should be handled by the service. I just want to know if spring planting is a waste and I should just wait until the fall.
 
I know that grass is best planted in the late fall, (late Aug-mid Oct.) What can be done to fill in patches that are sparse or didn’t respond well to fall planting? I would like to not have to look at a spotty lawn the whole year?


Any green thumbs?


I owned and managed a gardening company for the last 12 years of my working life. And I started my working life at a sod farm supplying golf courses. I've installed a lot of lawns, both sod & seed.

Sod is best and expensive, but there is something fulfilling for most people to 'grow their own'. It is not EASY but simple. I once had grass growing in the doorframe of my truck where it had spilled. I would boast "I can grow grass anywhere, even your fridge".

There are three secrets to growing good grass.

Water
Water
and
water.

Plant grass in the spring after the sap breaks or the fall, allowing for enough sunlight through 6 to 8 weeks. Spring is the much preferred installation time as you will have three to four months to cultivate the new growth and condition the land properly. Soaking and rolling regularly, every spring, will give you an immaculate and flat lawn. That's what they do in lawn bowling and lawn tennis. Baseball is a whole other matter.

Do this, rake and roll the area as flat as possible. Score the rolled earth with a push broom gently and lightly. (Make sure to use "top" soil. Be careful as the term is specific to a mixture of loam and sand about 50/50. If you don't have in now, and its not too big, buy some sand and rake it in.)

First fertilize the soil on a top layer. Hand sew the seeds with a smooth back hand motion left to right if you are rightie, trying to toss in an even arc. Trying to ensure an evenness throughout but don't worry grass spreads horizontally. (if you have to walk on the prepared area go barefoot and do not tip toe.

Then, using a hose with the nozzle on mist, slowly and gently moisten the seeds and top part of the soil, without moving any of the seeds. You want the seeds and the soil to be soaked which will produce a sticky substance and glue the seed in place.

If gentle and painstaking, you can water five six times a day. Do not water at night and anymore in north America consider covering with burlap as America has been infesteed with Asian beetles. You will need three days at least in moderate weather to get a sprouting, ten to 14 before you can stop watering daily but the more (gently) you water the better. Grass is directly related to perennial rice.

Be careful with a power mower. You may want to soak and roll the ground before making your first cut to reduce wheel tracks. Take away the clippings on the first cut, after that leave them to decompose and fertilize. Regular cutting is recomended as grass grows faster and fuller when cut regularly.
 
We contracted a lawn service outfit a few years back. They have done a decent job. The is a 100 yo maple (sugar?) in the front yard. I know it draws moisture a nutrients from the surrounding soil. I have tried to keep it wet. This fall/winter have been unseasonably warm and wet in the mid-Atlantic. I just want to look at green instead of dirt in patches around the tree. One of the lawn guys gave me a half a bag of their seed last fall and I over seeded a few patches and they came out great. I know I used more seed per sq ft than they would. They use a brand that I don’t see everywhere. It has a real nice color. LESCO. The grubs and chemical/fertilizer issues should be handled by the service. I just want to know if spring planting is a waste and I should just wait until the fall.


Maples store water. They can and do put in back in the soil. If is that old and big, it is likely an apex variety, Sugar maple leave look like this:




Maples actually benefit the surrounding surface crops, they drop tons of pollen which acts as a fertilizer.

Patchy lawns are usually the result of poor watering practices or repeated use.

I would recommend punching some holes around the flood of the tree (that part under it's leaves in summer) to help water flow.

I also recommend the install of whole new lawn if those patches are plentiful - it's actually logistically easier than managing a dozen or more patches and it will be all even.

I forgot to mention seed type. Anymore it's a mixture. Either talk to your nursery or buy a Scott's variety meeting your lawn's requirements - they have a 'new lawn' mixture which works well.

In this era of global warming the need for water is double maybe triple what it was. When I had my business my lawns stood out because I watered every spring and it showed in the dry months when watering was banned.

In the end if you love gardening, do it yourself. If you have any doubt hire a professional and question them extensively before hiring. There are a lot of garden myths out there, in fact you cited one of them that lawn seeding is best done in the fall. No. It is better than the middle of a hot summer but not best.
 
I know that grass is best planted in the late fall, (late Aug-mid Oct.) What can be done to fill in patches that are sparse or didn’t respond well to fall planting? I would like to not have to look at a spotty lawn the whole year?


Any green thumbs?
Either wait until spring/warmer weather and re-seed those areas (cheapest way to go). Or buy some sod and put it in place now.

The challenges with seeding (or overseeding) is all about proper preparation with the seed bed, and then best timing for your climate zone. If you have thin patches, then either the seed bed was not properly prepared; you didn't water properly to keep the seed bed damp and then full germination; rain, wind, or animals disrupted the seed bed in those areas. A lot of variables involved. Far fewer if you just install sod. Or, as the weather warms up, you may have some of those areas germinate still.

Since you are asking these questions, I'm guessing you are new to this. Good luck, a perfect lawn requires a ton of attention. Some homeowners prefer to plant a grass like St Augustine, which does not require seeding. It goes dormant in the winter, but in warm months will come back and fill in bare spots on its own, as long as you are watering, feeding, and thatching to prevent fungus at the proper times. St Augustine is also good at crowding out weeds.
 
I know that grass is best planted in the late fall, (late Aug-mid Oct.) What can be done to fill in patches that are sparse or didn’t respond well to fall planting? I would like to not have to look at a spotty lawn the whole year?


Any green thumbs?
You can reseed the spots in spring.
 
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