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Easier to see than to do

Texmex

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Yesterday I decided to completely dissemble my 1911 and put it back together. After all, I have Youtube videos showing how to do it. Well, I found out they come apart much easier than they go back together. After reassembling it several times, picking up several parts off the floor, especially small pins and springs, I did manage to reassemble it. Actually, the last time I put it together I noticed that the sear pin and hammer pin had to enter the frame from the left side. Also, if the sear pin falls out, you pretty much have to completely take it apart and put it back together from the beginning.

One good thing, the last time it only took five or six minutes to do the job. Nothing like repeated practice to hone one's skills. And, now I can do the job without making the hundreds of mistakes I did at first.

I believe I will pass on disassembling my Rugers, at least for the time being.
 
Lol- that seems to be the case with most things mechanical in nature: disassembly- easy. Reassembly- much harder than expected. :lol:

I am a pretty avid airgunner, and when I first started getting interested in tuning air rifles, it intimidated the hell out of me. I learned to keep the various parts in labeled containers, in order of disassembly, so as to avoid any confusion.
 
Yesterday I decided to completely dissemble my 1911 and put it back together. After all, I have Youtube videos showing how to do it. Well, I found out they come apart much easier than they go back together. After reassembling it several times, picking up several parts off the floor, especially small pins and springs, I did manage to reassemble it. Actually, the last time I put it together I noticed that the sear pin and hammer pin had to enter the frame from the left side. Also, if the sear pin falls out, you pretty much have to completely take it apart and put it back together from the beginning.

One good thing, the last time it only took five or six minutes to do the job. Nothing like repeated practice to hone one's skills. And, now I can do the job without making the hundreds of mistakes I did at first.

I believe I will pass on disassembling my Rugers, at least for the time being.

I have also learned that big, clear plastic bags are your friend as well. Place the components or firearms inside the bag prior to disassembly. Helps prevent losing small, spring loaded parts.
 
I usually have a checklist for firearms before considering a purchase;
1) Kick, it does me no good if it's jumping around after shots, I'm a pretty strong guy so if it's jumping on me it's a problem. Shot anticipation is critical.
2) Accuracy, all the shots in the world aren't worth a damn if they aren't on target.
3) Dependability, self explanatory.
4) Ease of assembly/breakdown. I don't like too many springs or small pieces, very easy for something to jump out during the breakdown/assemble process and get lost. Plus, the more moving parts something has the more things that can fail.
 
Yesterday I decided to completely dissemble my 1911 and put it back together. After all, I have Youtube videos showing how to do it. Well, I found out they come apart much easier than they go back together. After reassembling it several times, picking up several parts off the floor, especially small pins and springs, I did manage to reassemble it. Actually, the last time I put it together I noticed that the sear pin and hammer pin had to enter the frame from the left side. Also, if the sear pin falls out, you pretty much have to completely take it apart and put it back together from the beginning.

One good thing, the last time it only took five or six minutes to do the job. Nothing like repeated practice to hone one's skills. And, now I can do the job without making the hundreds of mistakes I did at first.

I believe I will pass on disassembling my Rugers, at least for the time being.

Just dont disassemble a MK1, 2 or 3 .22 semi auto. Not sure about the newer 22/45s.
 
I have also learned that big, clear plastic bags are your friend as well. Place the components or firearms inside the bag prior to disassembly. Helps prevent losing small, spring loaded parts.
Go to the hardware store or tool place like Sears, get a magnetic pan or bowl.
I have various sizes I use for different projects with little metal parts.
 
My 'trouble' with my 1911 is pushing the spring back in. It often doesn't quite go all the way. Have to mess with it a bit.
 
My 'trouble' with my 1911 is pushing the spring back in. It often doesn't quite go all the way. Have to mess with it a bit.
How many rounds have you put through it? Sometimes a spring is kind of stiff to start, they tend to loosen up after a few hundred rounds or so.
 
My 'trouble' with my 1911 is pushing the spring back in. It often doesn't quite go all the way. Have to mess with it a bit.

Recoil spring? They make tools for that that make it easier. Also a full length guide rod will help.
 
How many rounds have you put through it? Sometimes a spring is kind of stiff to start, they tend to loosen up after a few hundred rounds or so.

that's a new one for me-having built about 5 1911s from scratch (Caspian kits) and having changed springs about 100 times in competition guns, I have never heard of such issues. Full length guide rods actually can make things worse if they are the kind that you have to unscrew.

The biggest issue with springs is the WOLF springs used in Browning Hi Powers. There is a trick to getting those in and its not easy for amateurs
 
that's a new one for me-having built about 5 1911s from scratch (Caspian kits) and having changed springs about 100 times in competition guns, I have never heard of such issues. Full length guide rods actually can make things worse if they are the kind that you have to unscrew.

The biggest issue with springs is the WOLF springs used in Browning Hi Powers. There is a trick to getting those in and its not easy for amateurs
The advice I always got with a stiff spring was just to always wait it out and put rounds through it to soften it, however you are the expert here. I know the CZ platform weapons at various times have been pretty stiff out of the box, like my IWI which is a long bolt.
 
I've got about 400 rounds through it. It's probably just me.
 
I've got about 400 rounds through it. It's probably just me.
Maybe not. TD knows more about spring issues and internals than I do, it could just be the mechanics, or it could loosen up. Maybe have a smith take a look at it.
 
Go to the hardware store or tool place like Sears, get a magnetic pan or bowl.
I have various sizes I use for different projects with little metal parts.

What I meant was disassemble the components while they are in a clear plastic bag so spring loaded parts do not launch themselves into the Bermuda Triangle of gun parts. Case in point....try removing an extractor on a 10/22 bolt.....
As far as your magnet suggestion, I use a magnetic tool holder (the type they sell to mount on a wall for drill bits, punches ect.) wrapped in a bar towel to hold bits and pieces. By bar towel, I mean the microfiber ones.
 
Just dont disassemble a MK1, 2 or 3 .22 semi auto. Not sure about the newer 22/45s.

I've heard Rugers are best left alone unless it's done at a gun shop. My 1911 needed a good looking over and cleaning.

One thing now though is that I can disassemble and reassemble this 1911 now; I've had a lot of practice. :lamo
 
Go to the hardware store or tool place like Sears, get a magnetic pan or bowl.
I have various sizes I use for different projects with little metal parts.

One thing about using magnets you might want to consider is that is causes the metal parts it holds to become magnetic themselves. Then these parts will attract any tiny metal shavings or pieces that might end up in your gun.
 
My ruger 22/45 isn't that bad. But it's certainly not enough fun to want to do it.
 
One thing about using magnets you might want to consider is that is causes the metal parts it holds to become magnetic themselves. Then these parts will attract any tiny metal shavings or pieces that might end up in your gun.
You can always get a demagnatizer. But I have never had issue. Lube is your friend.
 
It appears you're disassembling your 1911 beyond just field stripping it for cleaning. As far as I've gotten beyond field stripping is disassembling the main spring housing and replacing the main spring. To clean the whole pistol well I field strip it, take off the grips, and mainspring housing if necessary, and spray it down with a cleaner lubricant like Breakfree or Birchwood Casey's Sheath. Then I lubricate it with Royal Purple and Wilson's Ultima Lube Grease.

I've never had to disassemble a 1911 beyond that point but I've also never fired 10,000 rounds from one gun either.
 
Μολὼν λαβέ;1062213085 said:
It appears you're disassembling your 1911 beyond just field stripping it for cleaning. As far as I've gotten beyond field stripping is disassembling the main spring housing and replacing the main spring. To clean the whole pistol well I field strip it, take off the grips, and mainspring housing if necessary, and spray it down with a cleaner lubricant like Breakfree or Birchwood Casey's Sheath. Then I lubricate it with Royal Purple and Wilson's Ultima Lube Grease.

I've never had to disassemble a 1911 beyond that point but I've also never fired 10,000 rounds from one gun either.

I agree that my gun didn't need to be completely disassembled. The main reason I did it was just to do it. I know it was probably a dumb thing to do, but I was determined to see if I could do it without taking a bucket of parts to a gunsmith for reassembly.

Other than my Sig Sauer P250 I will probably not attempt this with any of my other guns.
 
Μολὼν λαβέ;1062213085 said:
It appears you're disassembling your 1911 beyond just field stripping it for cleaning. As far as I've gotten beyond field stripping is disassembling the main spring housing and replacing the main spring. To clean the whole pistol well I field strip it, take off the grips, and mainspring housing if necessary, and spray it down with a cleaner lubricant like Breakfree or Birchwood Casey's Sheath. Then I lubricate it with Royal Purple and Wilson's Ultima Lube Grease.

I've never had to disassemble a 1911 beyond that point but I've also never fired 10,000 rounds from one gun either.

I agree, you generally don't have to do more than a field strip. That means pulling out the spring, barrel bushing and slide stop. changing the spring and lubrication is all that is needed unless you are shooting Pro Level IPSC amounts. I used to change barrels in my open gun since the 9X21 round was rough on the Tangfolio (EAA Gold Team) barrels and I needed it to hold 3" at 50 yards which it wouldn't after about two months of shooting (8 thousand rounds or so).

If you need to do a trigger job, then you might have to pull off the thumb safety, the disconnector, the sear etc.
 
The advice I always got with a stiff spring was just to always wait it out and put rounds through it to soften it, however you are the expert here. I know the CZ platform weapons at various times have been pretty stiff out of the box, like my IWI which is a long bolt.

It ssems help on my 3" Defender, its a tapered spring. On the 5" not some much. But I have more experience with the full size guns.
 
Μολὼν λαβέ;1062213085 said:
It appears you're disassembling your 1911 beyond just field stripping it for cleaning. As far as I've gotten beyond field stripping is disassembling the main spring housing and replacing the main spring. To clean the whole pistol well I field strip it, take off the grips, and mainspring housing if necessary, and spray it down with a cleaner lubricant like Breakfree or Birchwood Casey's Sheath. Then I lubricate it with Royal Purple and Wilson's Ultima Lube Grease.

I've never had to disassemble a 1911 beyond that point but I've also never fired 10,000 rounds from one gun either.
I rarely detail strip mine, but every now and again its good practice to do. To do a full inspection of parts as well.
Especially on my stainless guns. I dont care how well you clean them, there is always a black ooz that finds its way out. So totally apart they go.
 
It ssems help on my 3" Defender, its a tapered spring. On the 5" not some much. But I have more experience with the full size guns.
Same here. I don't do smaller firearms all that much, but the internals differ with every model.
 
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